Showing posts with label lion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lion. Show all posts

Saturday, 22 August 2026

Outpost Safari Lodge – Our Own Luxury Hideaway in the Kalahari

 

Outpost Safari Lodge, On top of sand dune
Kalahari Desert, Namibia 2026


An Unexpected Detour


Five hours of driving south-east
through the Kalahari Desert
Namibai 2026


After five hours of driving south-east through the Kalahari Desert, repeatedly crossing the enormous north–south dune ridges, we are getting close to Outpost Safari Lodge.

We are going to stay here for four nights, but we have absolutely no idea what awaits us.

We have never been here before.

The lodge is situated in the far south-eastern part of Namibia, close to the area where Namibia, Botswana and South Africa meet, in the heart of the Kalahari. Outpost itself lies on more than around 16,000 hectares of Kalahari wilderness.

Our original plan was actually to drive directly to neigbouring Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, where my then 15-year-old son and I had an unforgettable father-and-son trip in 2015. We stayed in the remote Wilderness Cabins in the desert (link).

Kgalagadi is also where my wife and I had one of our most memorable 4x4 adventures in 2024, driving 214 kilometres of sandy tracks through the Kalahari dunes with a wonderful group of South Africans and an excellent guide on the Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail (link).

This time, however, everything in Kgalagadi was booked.

Even though I was online the very morning bookings opened.

Clearly, some people have better connections to SANParks than we do.


The Search for an Alternative

So I started looking for an alternative in the same area.

After quite a bit of searching, I came across the website of Outpost Safaris (link). It looked beautiful, it was in exactly the right area — but I had never heard of the place before.

Outpost describes itself as being located on more than 40,000 acres where Namibia, Botswana and South Africa meet, in the heart of the Kalahari Desert. The family behind the lodge has generations of roots in the Kalahari and describes its philosophy as making guests feel less like customers and more like part of the family.

It sounded promising.

Now we are about to find out.


Into the Unknown


Entrance gate, Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


We arrive at the entrance gate in the afternoon.

There is nobody there to meet us, presumably because our exact arrival time was uncertain.

In a way, this gives us an opportunity for a first little adventure.

We have received instructions from Outpost: engage four-wheel drive and “keep to the left of the track” towards the lodge.

It soon becomes obvious that we are entering what appears to be completely deserted territory.

The track is a narrow, wonderfully adventurous sandy trail, with the surrounding grass constantly trying to reclaim it. A surprisingly high ridge of sand runs down the middle, but fortunately it is soft enough not to cause any damage underneath the Hilux.

So off we go.

We don't meet a soul.

Well, almost.

A large group of sable antelope stands out in the open grassland, watching us carefully as we pass. We also see the occasional impala and springbok.


A large group of sable antelope
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


There is an extraordinary sense of solitude.

And, inevitably, I start thinking about what our strategy would be if we happened to take the wrong track.

There are occasional side tracks, and some are not particularly obvious.

Fortunately, we have GPS reception everywhere, Tracks4Africa downloaded on the phone and, as a final safety net, a satellite phone.

So even if we get completely lost, we know exactly where the blue dot is.

Which is reassuring.


Our track, Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


A Slightly Embarrassing Start

The Hilux is struggling a little in the soft sand.

This surprises me.

Then I realise why.

We haven't actually engaged four-wheel drive.

A small but rather important detail.

The difference is immediate.

It is slightly amusing that we have started this new little Kalahari adventure in two-wheel drive, with tyre pressures still at around 1.8 bar — perfectly reasonable for gravel roads, but not ideal for soft sand.

Our plan B is to reduce the pressure to around 1.3 bar if things become more difficult. We know from previous experience that this makes an enormous difference in really soft sand.

And if that doesn't work, we have the high-lift jack and sandboards mounted on the vehicle.

So we are reasonably well prepared.

At least theoretically.


Wrong Track


Tracks in Kalahari,
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


After perhaps five kilometres, we reach a lonely steel-sheeted shed or outbuilding.

There is a vehicle parked outside, but not a single person in sight.

We decide to continue.

Keep left.

A little further on, we reach a small house where two African women are sitting outside.

This is clearly not Outpost Safari Lodge.

I ask:

“Outpost?”

One of the women kindly explains that we have to drive back to the shed and take the other track.

Exactly what she means by “the other track” is not entirely clear to me.

But it is obvious that we are in the wrong place.

As so often in Namibia, however, the people we encounter are friendly and helpful, and we turn around.

Back at the shed, we find what we now hope is the correct track.

And then, suddenly, we see buildings on top of a small dune to our right.

There is a sign: Dune House.


Dune House near Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


It turns out to be another accommodation option operated by Outpost Safaris. It is spectacularly situated, completely isolated and overlooking the Kalahari.

I get out and look for someone.

Nobody.

So we continue.

Third time lucky.

And then, in the distance, we finally see it.


Outpost Safari Lodge
Our room right ground floor
Namibia 2026


A large, beautiful building clad in green canvas, majestically perched on top of a sand dune.

Surely this must be it.


Finally – Outpost

We drive towards the top of the dune and park the Toyota Hilux in front of the lodge.

Initially, there is nobody in sight.

But the front door is wide open.

We step inside.

And there we meet Elize, who turns out to be our wonderfully friendly and competent host.


Elize, our friendly & competent host
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


She hadn't heard the car arriving.

But she certainly knew we were coming.

Fresh orange juice is already waiting in champagne glasses, together with a tray filled with homemade snacks and all sorts of delicious treats.

We were expected after all.

And within seconds, we feel completely welcome.

More importantly, we are enormously relieved to have finally found the place.


Our Own Luxury Lodge


Our room from the terrasse
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


Elize shows us to our room.

When we open the door, it exceeds our wildest expectations.

It is enormous.

The room is raised on stilts above the Kalahari, with two huge beds pushed together in the middle, covered with an almost absurd number of cushions.

From the bed there is a magnificent view across the Kalahari and out onto our private terrace.

And there, waiting for us, are wine glasses and an ice bucket.

Naturally.


Two huge beds in our room
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


Next to the bed is a beautiful masonry fireplace, meaning that we can lie under the duvet at night and watch the flames while the temperature drops outside.

Behind the sleeping area is an enormous classic English-style bathtub.

And next to it, naturally, a bottle of champagne waiting on ice.


Champagne waiting on ice
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


There are bath salts and herbs for the tub, a beautiful glass shower enclosure and double washbasins — allowing us, in theory, to brush our teeth at the same time.

The whole room is beautifully designed, luxurious without being flashy, and filled with small details that show how much thought has gone into the place.

Bravo.


A Lodge in the Wilderness


Inside Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

It quickly becomes apparent that we have, for all practical purposes, our own large luxury lodge in the middle of the Kalahari.

Nothing seems to be missing.

The main lodge has only four rooms, and its elevated position on the top of a sand dune provides sweeping views across the Kalahari and towards the waterhole below.

All our meals are prepared by Elize and her two assistants in the kitchen.

And they are extraordinary.

Three-course dinners appear every evening, accompanied by homemade cakes and other treats during the day.

In front of the main building is a large terrace with a fire pit and plunge pool, overlooking the waterhole below the dune, where animals come to drink.

Inside, there are large, heavy and beautiful wooden pieces of furniture with enormous cushions.



Huge chimney structure
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


Two masonry fireplaces merge into a huge chimney structure rising perhaps 10–12 metres above us.

There is also a help-yourself bar, with a fine selection of water, wine and spirits.

Next to the main lodge is a large sun lounge built on stilts, furnished with comfortable chairs and an assortment of international magazines.


sun lounge built on stilts, sunset
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


We are the only guests sitting at the dining table.

It is designed for around 20 people.

Fortunately, we don't have to sit at opposite ends!


We are only guests at dining table!
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


There Is a Snake in Paradise

But, as they say, there are always snakes in paradise.

Here, however, the snake turns out to be a lion.

After our recent leopard encounter with my brother and sister-in-law (link), I had actually resigned myself to the idea that we probably wouldn't see any more of Africa's big cats on this trip.

I had forgotten one rather important detail.

We are now living next door to Kgalagadi.

It turns out that one of the park's young male lions has recently decided to go on an excursion.


Lion, Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


He has dug his way underneath the fence into Outpost's enormous property.

And, if you think about it, this is perfectly understandable.

What could possibly be more tempting for a young lion than a self-service buffet, moving into a large wildlife-rich area where he is apparently the only big cat?


Our Unexpected House Lion


Wife staying close to Lodge
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


Elize advises us not to wander around outside the lodge too much.

She has just seen the lion before our arrival.

It has killed a large zebra.

And she has seen its tracks around next door Dune House.

Which, of course, happens to be precisely where I was wandering around looking for staff a short while earlier. ;-)

So it turns out that we have, somewhat unexpectedly, moved into a house with our very own lion.

We decide that we would prefer him to maintain a reasonable distance.

Very reasonable, actually.


Four Nights in the Kalahari


Plungepool at sunset, Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


What an extraordinary place we have moved into.

Outpost has completely exceeded our expectations.

We came here as an alternative because we couldn't get into Kgalagadi.

Instead, we have somehow ended up in our own private luxury hideaway in the middle of the Kalahari, surrounded by competent and kind staff, dunes, wildlife and complete silence.

And apparently, one wandering young male lion.

We are looking forward to four nights of peace, luxury and adventure.

Although perhaps with slightly less wandering around outside than we had originally planned.

Wednesday, 21 August 2019

Eleven white and one black rhinos plus two lions in 45 minutes!

From boring to exciting in 45 minutes


We take a sundowner tour from Ongava Lodge. It starts off endlessly boring. Everything is dry and dusty (like Etosha). After the first hour, we saw a turtle, a larger kudu and some black faced impala. Not the big excitement!

We take a sundowner tour from Onguma Lodge
It starts off endlessly boring, Namibia 2019

Turtle, Ongava Game reserve.
Namibia 2019

Then all of a sudden, just at sunset, we see eleven white rhinos, one black rhino and two lions. Crazy!

White rhinos, Ongava Game reserve

Exciting to be so close to the majestic animals! Nice that the rhino is not quite as hunted as it was a few years ago. The animals are closely watched by anti poaching patrols.

At night we hear lions outside the tent, now we better understand the armed guard.

White rhino, Ongava Game Reserve, Namibia 2019

White rhino close up, Ongava Game Reserve, Namibia 2019

Black rhino at dusk, Ongava Game Reserve, Namibia 2019

Two lions in front of car at dusk
Ongava Game Reserve, Namibia 2019

Tuesday, 6 August 2019

Dont run!

What do you do if you meet a cat?


Grassland Safari Lodge, Namibia 2012

We are heading for Etendeka Mountains. We are going to walk for three days with a guide in the wilderness. Before leaving, we remember the advice given previous trips, rangers and the Bradt Guide (link)

When you meet a "cat"

(We are not talking about “Garfield” but lion, leopard and cheetah)

  • Don’t run
  • Stop and back up slowly
  • Stick together as a group
  • Loud, deep confident noises are last line of defense. Shout, bang something.
  • If they follow you, stop up and pretend you are not afraid (for sure you are)
  • Don’t walk around at night, but if urgent, scan the surroundings for eye reflections

Never run from a big cat, it might convince the cat you are afraid and instinctively worth chasing. Also, the cat is always faster!

Lions are especially dangerous, if you come across youngsters
Grassland Safari Lodge, Namibia 2012

Lions are especially dangerous, if you come across youngsters, a large pride or mating pairs. For leopards, don´t look them directly in the eyes (perhaps also true lions, but there are lacking “double blind studies”  ;-)

Two of our encounters with big cats

In August 2012, I had an extraordinary exciting experience getting up with my daughter in the middle of the night in a camp known for its “house leopard” at Grasslands Safari Lodge Campsite in Central Kalahari. You can read the story in Danish and see pictures at this (link). In English:
Beware of the old male leopard; it likes to climb onto the water tower”. Said the manager from Grassland Safari Lodge, who referred to the small water tower, which was in the middle of the campsite approx. 30 meters from our tent. "It´s not a problem, but you shouldn't frighten it". None of us had the slightest desire to scare an old large male leopard. The manager continued; ”Especially at night, light well with your flashlight out of the tent in all directions. If you see gleaming eyes, then do not go out, but wait. If you surprise the leopard outside your tent, stand still. You must not run under any circumstances. Slowly pull back to the car. In case of emergency, light it directly in the eyes, but then you must be able to reach the car quickly, as it is an aggressive action!”.
At 4 o'clock at night, I was awakened by a voice: "I have to pee very much". It was my daughter from the top of the Land Rover. I looked at my wife, it certainly did not look like she was about to head for the toilet building next to the water tower in the middle of the night. The duvet off – it´s freezing cold at night in Kalahari Desert in August! I use the flashlight, no gleaming leopard eyes. However, the light does not reach behind the tent and car. I leave the tent carefully shining in all directions. Still no gleaming eyes and no leopard in the toilet building as well. What a relief!

Our camp, Central Kalahari Game Reserve in Botswana
Waking up with lions outside the tent at night!

Also, me and my wife had a scary experience at Sunday Pan in Central Kalahari Game Reserve in Botswana waking up with lions outside the tent. You can read the story in Danish and see pictures at this (link). In English “…”
It´s 4 o'clock at night in our camp. Finally, we fell asleep after the day's hardships and after listening to all the unfamiliar sounds around the tent at nightfall. Our children sleep safely on the roof of the Land Rover, we are in a ground tent. The children talked long before they fell asleep. We feel very alone on Sunday Pan in the middle of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Just about as far out on the edge of the world as you can get. Suddenly, we are wide awake! Loud lion roar sounds only a short distance west of the tent – it sounds like there are many lions. We remember the huge Kalahari lions we've just seen in Graassland's Safari Lodge. "Did you hear it?" I ask my wife softly. "Yes" she responded.
There was no need to say more. We just lay completely still and tried to breathe without making any sounds. Good the kids didn't wake up – it would have been bad timing. The minutes pass, apparently without the lions coming closer to the tent. After an hour, I hear the lions again, now south of the tent and a little further away. I'm relieved this is the last night in Central Kalahari. This is too extreme. 

Grassland Safari Camp, Namibia 2012

Other dangerous animals

Don’t forget, the most dangerous “animal” in Africa is the mosquito (Anopheles) carrying malaria.

Talking about larger animals, its hippo and buffaloes. Let the hippos know you are there and avoid deep areas. Don’t cut hippos path of retreat. Avoid lonely old buffalo males. If the chase you, chance direction (last minute ;-) They are short-sighted. With animals that don’t climb trees, you might opt for that:
"you will be amazed which trees you can climb"
As one ranger once told us on walking safari with rhinos in Matobo National Park in Zimbabwe.

Near Ihaha Public Campsite, Botswana 2012

Saturday, 11 August 2012

Biting cold and lion roars outside our tent!


Sunday Pan, Central Kalahari Game Reserve, August 8th kl. 0400 a.m.



“Aaoouu—a soft groan startled me. I slowly lifted my head and peered over my feet. My breath caught. It was a very big lioness—more than 300 pounds—but from ground level she looked even larger. She was moving toward us from about five yards away, her head swinging from side to side and the black tuft on her tail twitching deliberately. I clenched a tuft of grass, held on tight, and froze. The lioness came closer, her broad paws lifting and falling in perfect rhythm, jewels of moisture clinging to her coarse whiskers, her deep-amber eyes looking straight at me. I wanted to wake up Delia, but I was afraid to move.”
― Mark Owens, Cry Of The Kalahari (Quotes at Goodreads)


Deception Pan, August 8th

 

Full moon

It's 4 o'clock in the morning. We have finally fallen into a deep sleep after the day's hardships and after lying and listening to all the sounds around the tent. The children are sleeping safely on the roof of the car. They talked for a long time together before falling asleep. We are completely alone in the world in the middle of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. As far out on the edge as one can get in this world. Suddenly, we are wide awake!! There are all too clear lion roars sounding only about 200 meters west of the tent – there are many of them. We think of the enormous, real Kalahari lions that we just saw at Grasslands Safari Lodge. "Did you hear that?" I ask softly. "Yes," Pia answers. There is no need to say more. We just lie completely still and try to breathe without making a sound. Good thing the children didn't wake up – it's a bad time to call. The minutes pass, seemingly without them coming closer. After about an hour, I hear the lions again, now south of the tent. They are a little farther away. Glad that this is the last night in Central Kalahari. It is too extreme...

In Danish [Kl. er 4 om natten. Vi er endelig faldt I dyb søvn efter dagens strabadser og efter at have ligget og lyttet til alle lyde omkring teltet. Børnene sover trygt på taget af bilen. De talte lang tid sammen, før de faldt i søvn. Vi er helt alene i verden midt i Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Så langt ud på kanten, som man kan komme i denne verden. Pludselig er vi lysvågne!! Der lyder alt for tydelige løvebrøl kun ca. 200 meter vest for teltet – der er mange af dem. Vi tænker på de enorme ægte Kalahari løver, som vi lige har set i Graasslands Safari Lodge . ”Hørte du det”? spørger jeg sagte. ”Ja” svarer Pia. Der er ikke behov for at sige mere. Vi ligger bare helt stille og forsøger at trække vejret uden at lave en lyd. Godt børnene ikke vågnede – det er et dårligt tidspunkt at kalde. Minutterne går, tilsyneladende uden de kommer nærmere. Efter en times tid hører jeg igen løverne, nu syd for teltet. De er lidt længere væk. Glad for at det er sidste nat i Central Kalahari. Der er for ekstremt…]

Kalahari lion