Showing posts with label Sunday Pan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sunday Pan. Show all posts

Tuesday, 6 August 2019

Dont run!

What do you do if you meet a cat?


Grassland Safari Lodge, Namibia 2012

We are heading for Etendeka Mountains. We are going to walk for three days with a guide in the wilderness. Before leaving, we remember the advice given previous trips, rangers and the Bradt Guide (link)

When you meet a "cat"

(We are not talking about “Garfield” but lion, leopard and cheetah)

  • Don’t run
  • Stop and back up slowly
  • Stick together as a group
  • Loud, deep confident noises are last line of defense. Shout, bang something.
  • If they follow you, stop up and pretend you are not afraid (for sure you are)
  • Don’t walk around at night, but if urgent, scan the surroundings for eye reflections

Never run from a big cat, it might convince the cat you are afraid and instinctively worth chasing. Also, the cat is always faster!

Lions are especially dangerous, if you come across youngsters
Grassland Safari Lodge, Namibia 2012

Lions are especially dangerous, if you come across youngsters, a large pride or mating pairs. For leopards, don´t look them directly in the eyes (perhaps also true lions, but there are lacking “double blind studies”  ;-)

Two of our encounters with big cats

In August 2012, I had an extraordinary exciting experience getting up with my daughter in the middle of the night in a camp known for its “house leopard” at Grasslands Safari Lodge Campsite in Central Kalahari. You can read the story in Danish and see pictures at this (link). In English:
“Beware of the old male leopard; it likes to climb onto the water tower”. Said the manager from Grassland Safari Lodge, who referred to the small water tower, which was in the middle of the campsite approx. 30 meters from our tent. "It´s not a problem, but you shouldn't frighten it". None of us had the slightest desire to scare an old large male leopard. The manager continued; ”Especially at night, light well with your flashlight out of the tent in all directions. If you see gleaming eyes, then do not go out, but wait. If you surprise the leopard outside your tent, stand still. You must not run under any circumstances. Slowly pull back to the car. In case of emergency, light it directly in the eyes, but then you must be able to reach the car quickly, as it is an aggressive action!”.
At 4 o'clock at night, I was awakened by a voice: "I have to pee very much". It was my daughter from the top of the Land Rover. I looked at my wife, it certainly did not look like she was about to head for the toilet building next to the water tower in the middle of the night. The duvet off – it´s freezing cold at night in Kalahari Desert in August! I use the flashlight, no gleaming leopard eyes. However, the light does not reach behind the tent and car. I leave the tent carefully shining in all directions. Still no gleaming eyes and no leopard in the toilet building as well. What a relief!

Our camp, Central Kalahari Game Reserve in Botswana
Waking up with lions outside the tent at night!

Also, me and my wife had a scary experience at Sunday Pan in Central Kalahari Game Reserve in Botswana waking up with lions outside the tent. You can read the story in Danish and see pictures at this (link). In English “…”
It´s 4 o'clock at night in our camp. Finally, we fell asleep after the day's hardships and after listening to all the unfamiliar sounds around the tent at nightfall. Our children sleep safely on the roof of the Land Rover, we are in a ground tent. The children talked long before they fell asleep. We feel very alone on Sunday Pan in the middle of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Just about as far out on the edge of the world as you can get. Suddenly, we are wide awake! Loud lion roar sounds only a short distance west of the tent – it sounds like there are many lions. We remember the huge Kalahari lions we've just seen in Graassland's Safari Lodge. "Did you hear it?" I ask my wife softly. "Yes" she responded.
There was no need to say more. We just lay completely still and tried to breathe without making any sounds. Good the kids didn't wake up – it would have been bad timing. The minutes pass, apparently without the lions coming closer to the tent. After an hour, I hear the lions again, now south of the tent and a little further away. I'm relieved this is the last night in Central Kalahari. This is too extreme. 

Grassland Safari Camp, Namibia 2012

Other dangerous animals

Don’t forget, the most dangerous “animal” in Africa is the mosquito (Anopheles) carrying malaria.

Talking about larger animals, its hippo and buffaloes. Let the hippos know you are there and avoid deep areas. Don’t cut hippos path of retreat. Avoid lonely old buffalo males. If the chase you, chance direction (last minute ;-) They are short-sighted. With animals that don’t climb trees, you might opt for that:
"you will be amazed which trees you can climb"
As one ranger once told us on walking safari with rhinos in Matobo National Park in Zimbabwe.

Near Ihaha Public Campsite, Botswana 2012

Saturday, 11 August 2012

Biting cold and lion roars outside our tent!


Sunday Pan, Central Kalahari Game Reserve, August 8th kl. 0400 a.m.



“Aaoouu—a soft groan startled me. I slowly lifted my head and peered over my feet. My breath caught. It was a very big lioness—more than 300 pounds—but from ground level she looked even larger. She was moving toward us from about five yards away, her head swinging from side to side and the black tuft on her tail twitching deliberately. I clenched a tuft of grass, held on tight, and froze. The lioness came closer, her broad paws lifting and falling in perfect rhythm, jewels of moisture clinging to her coarse whiskers, her deep-amber eyes looking straight at me. I wanted to wake up Delia, but I was afraid to move.”
― Mark Owens, Cry Of The Kalahari (Quotes at Goodreads)


Deception Pan, August 8th

 

Full moon

It's 4 o'clock in the morning. We have finally fallen into a deep sleep after the day's hardships and after lying and listening to all the sounds around the tent. The children are sleeping safely on the roof of the car. They talked for a long time together before falling asleep. We are completely alone in the world in the middle of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. As far out on the edge as one can get in this world. Suddenly, we are wide awake!! There are all too clear lion roars sounding only about 200 meters west of the tent – there are many of them. We think of the enormous, real Kalahari lions that we just saw at Grasslands Safari Lodge. "Did you hear that?" I ask softly. "Yes," Pia answers. There is no need to say more. We just lie completely still and try to breathe without making a sound. Good thing the children didn't wake up – it's a bad time to call. The minutes pass, seemingly without them coming closer. After about an hour, I hear the lions again, now south of the tent. They are a little farther away. Glad that this is the last night in Central Kalahari. It is too extreme...

In Danish [Kl. er 4 om natten. Vi er endelig faldt I dyb søvn efter dagens strabadser og efter at have ligget og lyttet til alle lyde omkring teltet. Børnene sover trygt på taget af bilen. De talte lang tid sammen, før de faldt i søvn. Vi er helt alene i verden midt i Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Så langt ud på kanten, som man kan komme i denne verden. Pludselig er vi lysvågne!! Der lyder alt for tydelige løvebrøl kun ca. 200 meter vest for teltet – der er mange af dem. Vi tænker på de enorme ægte Kalahari løver, som vi lige har set i Graasslands Safari Lodge . ”Hørte du det”? spørger jeg sagte. ”Ja” svarer Pia. Der er ikke behov for at sige mere. Vi ligger bare helt stille og forsøger at trække vejret uden at lave en lyd. Godt børnene ikke vågnede – det er et dårligt tidspunkt at kalde. Minutterne går, tilsyneladende uden de kommer nærmere. Efter en times tid hører jeg igen løverne, nu syd for teltet. De er lidt længere væk. Glad for at det er sidste nat i Central Kalahari. Der er for ekstremt…]

Kalahari lion

Endeløs tomhed!


Central Kalahari Game Reserve 7. august


Endeløs tomhed, sagde Prædikeren, endeløs tomhed, alt er tomhed


Prædikerens bog, kap. 1, vers 2.

Dette må være det nærmeste man kommer på at være alene i verden! Endeløs tomhed fordelt på 53.000 km2. Det er et af verdens største vildreservater - ca. 60 gange Bornholms størrelse.

This is Africa at its most remote and esoteric: a vast sand sheet punctuated by a few huge open plans, occasional salt pans and the fossil remains of ancient riverbeds. The Central Kalahari Game Reserve isn´t for everybody … So unless you have a fully equipped vehicle (preferably two) and lots of bush experience, it is probably not the place for you. The converse is that if you have already experienced enough of Africa to love the feeling of space and the sheer freedom of real wilderness areas, then this reserve is completely magical; it´s the ultimate wilderness destination

Chris McIntyre, Botswana – the Brads Safari Guide 2010

Vi kører ca. 275 kilometer fra Grasslands Safari Lodge Campsite østpå. Vi følger et sandspor i Kalahariørkenen på vej mod  ”Sunday Pan” i ”Central Kalahari Game Reserve”. Vi bruger kun første og andet gear, men en sjælden gang imellem kan vi komme helt op i 3. gear. Jo hurtigere vi kører, desto større risiko er der for at overse et af de store huller i vejen, som hulepindsvin, ræve og diverse gnavere har lavet. Det kan knække aksen. Ikke rart med flere hundrede kilometer til nærmeste hjælp. Vi møder ikke et eneste menneske i de 8 timer, vi er undervejs. Vi ser heller ikke en eneste bil.


8 timers kørsel af et spor gennem Kalahari
Vi møder ingen mennesker eller biler
Central Kalahari Game Reserve 2012

En sjælden storslået oplevelse i en verden fyldt med mennesker – er det nu 7 milliarder? Men samtidig en tankevækkende barsk natur lige udenfor den beskyttende Land Rover ramme. Her gælder det om at have udstyr og planlægning på plads, ellers er der kontant afregning. Dette er absolut grænsen for, hvad der er fysik muligt.


Trods alle ods?
Træer, Deception Pan, Central Kalahari Game Reserve 2012