Showing posts with label Tsau Khaeb National Park. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tsau Khaeb National Park. Show all posts

Monday, 10 August 2026

On the Edge of the Sperrgebiet Diamond Area

Wife at "our half" of The Boulder
Near Klein Aus Vista (Sperrgebeit)
Namibia 2026

We have arrived at Klein Aus Vista, just outside the sleepy little town of Aus. There isn't an enormous amount happening in Aus itself, but it does have a petrol station, a surprisingly well-stocked little grocery shop and, somewhat unexpectedly, a rather smart hotel.

We have booked three nights in The Boulder, a unique self-catering stone cottage built around an enormous granite boulder. The cottage blends beautifully into the surrounding landscape and offers complete peace and privacy on the edge of the former Sperrgebiet.

For more than a century, this vast area was closed to the public because of its rich diamond deposits. Today, the former Sperrgebiet forms part of Tsau Khaeb National Park, protecting an extraordinary desert environment within the Succulent Karoo, one of the world's recognised biodiversity hotspots. The region is particularly famous for its remarkable succulent flora and pristine desert ecosystems.


Welcome Back to Klein Aus Vista


Klein Aus Vista
Namibia 2026


We receive a warm and heartfelt welcome at the reception of Desert Horse Inn. The staff are, just as on our previous visit, exceptionally friendly and service-minded. They explain everything about the lodge, provide us with a map of the many walking trails and hand over the keys to our stone cottage, located about seven kilometres from reception at the foot of the mountains.

The reception at Desert Horse Inn is surprisingly well equipped for such a remote location. Most basic necessities can be bought here, including braai packs for the barbecue. There is also a pleasant swimming pool and a cosy restaurant with a distinctly German influence—perhaps not surprising given the area's history.

For our first two evenings, however, we have decided to enjoy the privacy of The Boulder. We buy a braai pack containing lamb chops, oryx skewers and baked potatoes, ready for an evening barbecue overlooking the Sperrgebiet.

When we arrive at the cottage, it is every bit as unique as we had hoped.



The Boulder, near Klein Aus Vista (Sperrgebeit)
Tsau Khaeb National Park
Namibia 2026 


The Boulder is built from local stone and materials and wraps itself elegantly around a gigantic granite boulder, perhaps eight metres high. The architecture is remarkably well integrated into the landscape, making it difficult to tell where the natural rock ends and the cottage begins.

Inside is a cosy communal living area with a wood-burning stove and, quite possibly, the best-equipped honesty bar I have encountered to date. It is certainly an impressive collection for a self-catering cottage in the middle of the desert.

There are two completely private sleeping areas, each with its own shower bathroom and magnificent views across the desert directly from the bed. Both bedrooms also have their own covered stone terrace with a table and chairs.


The Boulder (half), our terrace
Namibia 2026

Our room with a view to
Tsau Khaeb National Park
Namibia 2026


In front of the cottage stands another large granite boulder, complete with a natural rock pool that serves as a birdbath. It provides endless entertainment as birds come and go, completely unconcerned by their human observers.

The other stone cottages are sufficiently far away that everyone can enjoy complete privacy.

What a unique place!

It lives up fully to our already very high expectations.


The Boulder from the distance
Tsau Khaeb National Park
Namibia 2026


A Sunset Worth Remembering


Sunset Tsau Khaeb National Park
From our terrasse
Namibia 2026


On our first evening, we prepare dinner on the barbecue while the sun begins its slow descent over the Sperrgebiet.

The colours are extraordinary—deep reds, violets and shades of khaki changing almost by the minute as the sun sinks towards the horizon. We are particularly fortunate to have a few clouds in the sky, catching and reflecting the colours and turning an already spectacular sunset into something quite extraordinary.


Clouds catching reflecting colours
Tsau Khaeb National Park
Namibia 2026

Once the sun has disappeared, there is a short period of almost complete darkness before the moon rises. Venus shines brilliantly in the clear sky, and then the Milky Way gradually takes centre stage. With virtually no artificial light anywhere around us, the night sky is simply spectacular.


Milkey Way above our terrace (red)
Tsau Khaeb National Park
Namibia 2026


And tonight is particularly special.

We are celebrating 32 years of marriage, in the company of my brother and sister-in-law, in one of the most beautiful and memorable settings imaginable.

It is a reminder that, in the end, it is about collecting memories rather than possessions.

Good food on the braai, wonderful company, an unforgettable desert sunset and a bottle of South African Cava that we brought from Fish River Canyon Lodge especially for the occasion.

The setting could hardly have been more perfect.

And neither could the company.


Celebrating 32 years of marriage
At sunset, Tsau Khaeb National Park
Namibia 2026

Celebrating 32 years of marriage
collecting memories rather than possessions
Tsau Khaeb National Park, Namibia 2026

Brothers at the braai
Tsau Khaeb National Park, Namibia 2026



Monday, 27 July 2026

Fish River Canyon and Tsau Khaeb (Sperrgebiet) National Park, part 2

 

 

Fish River Lodge pool,
Namibia, 2022.

After two nights in the Kalahari, we continue southwest towards one of Namibia's greatest natural wonders—Fish River Canyon.

For the next two nights we will stay at Fish River Canyon Lodge, which enjoys an extraordinary location right on the edge of the world's second-largest canyon. Few hotels can honestly claim to offer a true room with a view, but this is certainly one of them. Waking up to the vast canyon stretching endlessly across the landscape is an unforgettable experience.

The highlight of our stay will be the lodge's seven-hour Canyon Drive, descending from the rim to the canyon floor before climbing back to the top. We were fortunate enough to experience this excursion on a previous visit, and it remains one of the most memorable activities we have done anywhere in Namibia. We are therefore particularly excited to share it with my brother and sister-in-law.

For those preferring a more relaxed pace, the area also offers excellent walking trails along the canyon rim, while the swimming pool provides one of the finest views imaginable—even if the water is rather chilly during the Namibian winter!

Leaving Fish River Canyon behind, we follow the beautiful Arimas River Road (D463), a route we have driven once before and one that remains among our absolute favourites in Namibia. In our opinion, it rivals even the famous D707, which we will encounter later on this journey. The road winds through magnificent desert scenery with very little traffic, making the drive itself one of the day's highlights.


Klein Aus Vista, Eagels Nest cabin,
Namibia, 2022.

Our destination is Klein Aus Vista, where we have booked the unique self-catering stone cottage known as The Boulder for three nights. Built around an enormous granite boulder, the cottage blends beautifully into the surrounding landscape and offers complete peace and privacy on the edge of the former Sperrgebiet.

For more than a century, this vast area was closed to the public because of its rich diamond deposits. Today it forms Tsau Khaeb National Park, protecting one of the world's most important biodiversity hotspots, famous for its remarkable succulent flora and pristine desert ecosystems.

During our stay, we plan to explore several of the well-marked walking trails around Klein Aus Vista before making a day trip to the historic coastal town of Lüderitz and the haunting ghost town of Kolmanskop, where drifting desert sand slowly continues to reclaim the abandoned diamond-mining settlement. You can read about our previous visit in an earlier blog post (Kolmanskop 2022).

Our Family Adventure Begins: Namibia 2026 Central and Southern Highlights Trip

Blogger planning trip,
Olive Grove Guesthouse,
Windhoek, namibia 2026

If there is one country that keeps drawing us back, it is undoubtedly Namibia. By now, we have visited often enough to call it our favourite destination in Africa.

On our previous journey, we travelled with close friends on a quite extreeme expedition (Namibia 2024). This time, however, we have persuaded my brother and sister-in-law to join us for their very first visit to this remarkable country. Sharing highlights from a place that has given us so many unforgettable memories is perhaps even more rewarding than discovering somewhere new ourselves.

As always, I have thoroughly enjoyed planning every aspect of the trip. After many self-drive adventures across Southern Africa, researching routes, comparing lodges and piecing together the perfect itinerary has become part of the experience itself.

Highlights ininerary

For this journey, we have chosen to focus on the highlights of central and southern Namibia, revisiting several of our favourite places while allowing enough time to truly enjoy them. Instead of rushing from one attraction to the next, we have planned two or three nights at almost every destination—a style of travelling we have come to appreciate after our earlier visits.

Our route combines dramatic desert landscapes, towering red dunes, one of the world's largest canyons, spectacular mountain passes, the Skeleton Coast and the extraordinary granite formations of the Erongo Mountains, home to hundreds of ancient San rock art sites, fascinating wildlife and wonderful hiking trails.

Unlike many first-time visitors, we have decided to skip Etosha National Park and northern Namibia altogether. Those regions certainly deserve a journey of their own, but for this trip we prefer slower travel, spending quality time in each destination rather than covering as many kilometres as possible.

This is the itinerary for the first three weeks of what promises to be another unforgettable Namibian adventure.

On the way to Sandwich Harbour
Namibia 2025


The itinerary includes:

  • Windhoek
  • The Kalahari Desert
  • Fish River Canyon
  • Tsau Khaeb National Park and Lüderitz
  • NamibRand Nature Reserve
  • Sossusvlei region
  • Swakopmund and Sandwich Harbour
  • The Erongo Mountains
  • Okonjima Nature Reserve

In the following five posts, I will descripe the 2026 itinerary in more detals

  1. Windhoek and the Kalahari Desert (Part 1)
  2. Fish River Canyon and Tsau Khaeb (Sperrgebiet) National Park (Part 2)
  3. NamibRand Nature Reserve, One of the Most Beautiful Places on Earth (Part 3)
  4. Across the Desert to the Atlantic Coast (Part 4)
  5. Erongo Mountains and Okonjima Nature Reserve (Part 5)