NamibRand – Desert Days, Oryx and a Windblown Sundowner

 

NamibRand Family Hideout
Milkey Way
Namibia 2026

Back to NamibRand

We arrive at “our” lovely farm, The NamibRand Family Hideout, remotely situated in south-western Namibia within the stunning NamibRand Nature Reserve, one of Southern Africa’s largest private nature reserves. We are looking forward to settling in and enjoying the spectacular views across the vast plains towards the ancient blue mountain ranges.

After unpacking and settling into the house (link), we decide to take a drive along the approximately 5-kilometre self-drive 4WD track. It is a beautiful and, from a driving perspective, not particularly difficult route through the surrounding landscape — a perfect introduction to the terrain before our much longer four-hour nature drive, which we have booked in advance.

Oryx suddenly appear,
standing with their calves
Namibia 2026

We have just passed the first sandy rise when two large oryx suddenly appear, standing with their calves in the shade of a tree only about 30 metres from us. We see oryx everywhere in this part of the reserve. They are remarkably well adapted to life in this extraordinarily dry environment and can survive with little or no access to drinking water, obtaining much of their water from the plants they eat and conserving water with highly efficient physiological adaptations. Their ability to cope with dehydration and heat is one of the reasons they can thrive in landscapes where surface water is virtually absent.

It is wonderful to be able to drive on our own through this landscape, although the restrictions on where we can go are entirely understandable. In a fragile desert ecosystem like this, even apparently insignificant vehicle tracks can leave a lasting footprint, and conservation naturally has to come first.

Sunset on the Dunes

Sunset on highest sand dune
Blogger, wife and family
Namibia 2026

As sunset approaches, we decide to experience it from the highest sand dune we spotted during our earlier drive. We pack our chairs and the essential G&Ts and set off.

Climbing a steep sand dune is hard work — two steps forward and one step back! The sunset wind is already blowing quite strongly, whipping sand across the ridge, while the colours of the landscape gradually become warmer and more intensely reddish. At the same time, the lowering sun throws increasingly long shadows across the dunes and plains.

We are now close to Venus Campsite, where we stayed with good friends two years ago (link). It is one of those places where previous journeys suddenly become part of the present one.

Sun disappears behind the mountain range
Namibia 2026

There are plenty of photographs taken from the top of the dune, but eventually the sun disappears behind the mountain range — the same range where we once slept on camp beds out in the desert, while spotted hyenas visited our camp during the night on Tok Tokkie Trails (link).

Heading back for the fire
Namibia 2026

It is striking how rapidly the temperature drops in the desert the moment the sun disappears. Within minutes, we are very happy to head back to the house, the fire and our grilled lamb chops — bought during our rather unsuccessful shopping expedition to Lüderitz (link).

We are, however, suffering in the most luxurious possible way. Somehow, we even managed to acquire some fresh salad from the greenhouse near the reception where we checked in.

Evening with wife, brother and sister-in-law
NamibRand Family Hideout
Namibia 2026

It is a magical evening in the company of my brother and sister-in-law. Once complete darkness has descended, but before the full moon rises, we sit outside and admire the spectacular Milky Way stretching across the sky above us (see first picture). NamibRand is particularly renowned for its exceptionally dark skies, making the desert at night almost as impressive as it is by day.

We spend a wonderfully peaceful evening in the spacious house before getting ready for our four-hour nature drive the following morning, departing at 7:30.

A Very Cold Morning

Clouds and cold morning
NamibRand Family Hideout
Namibia 2026

And then we discover something quite unusual for early August: clouds!

Winter in this part of Namibia is normally characterised by dry, clear skies, warm sunshine during the day and very cold nights. Rainfall is highly erratic, and the period from roughly May through August is generally the dry season. Temperatures can fall dramatically after sunset, with frost and even sub-zero temperatures possible in the NamibRand area.

This morning is therefore a bit of an exception. It is overcast, cold and surprisingly windy.

We quickly realise, after only a few hundred metres in the open vehicle, that we have become thoroughly acclimatised to the warmth of the preceding days — and have dressed far too lightly. We are absolutely freezing as we head out into the reserve, exposed to the wind chill created by the moving vehicle.

A blanket, as provided on many other nature drives, would have been very welcome!

Sunrise cold morning
NamibRand 4 hours nature drive
Namibia 2026

Fortunately, we almost forget the cold when the sun begins to rise over the desert. The first rays illuminate a distant line of dunes, creating an extraordinary landscape of muted colours. We stop on a high dune, where we have a magnificent panorama over the surrounding wilderness.

The colours are almost surreal to our eyes: every conceivable shade of khaki, grey, sand and blue-green, changing subtly as the sun climbs higher.

Colours are almost surreal, NamibRand
Namibia 2026

Then comes the adventurous part.

Our Land Cruiser heads diagonally down a very steep sandy slope. We instinctively use arms and legs to brace ourselves, trying to prevent all four passengers from ending up on the same side of the vehicle. Fortunately, our driver clearly has complete confidence in what the Land Cruiser can do.

We are less convinced.

For a moment, it feels as though the whole vehicle might simply tip over sideways.

It doesn't.

Just before very steep sandy slope
Not possible to see on picture
Namibia 2026

Into the Unknown

From here, we continue towards the most remote south-western parts of the reserve, on a route that takes us considerably farther into NamibRand than we have ever been before. I keep trying to follow our route on my otherwise completely reliable Tracks4Africa map — but the tracks we are driving simply aren't there.

Into the unknown
NamibRand 4 hours nature drive
Namibia 2026

Desert blooming
NamibRand 4 hours nature drive
Namibia 2026

That is quite something!

The afternoon is spent relaxing — and, not least, warming up — after our exceptionally cold morning and long drive.

Late in the afternoon, another adventure awaits.

The Deception Hill Climb

We are going to climb the nearby rocky hill known as Deception Hill on what is called the “Koppie Climb”. The excursion includes transport and a guide and promises a magnificent sundowner viewpoint.

Before booking it, I had tried to establish exactly which mountain was involved and whether the climb would be suitable for our family group of four. I remember all too clearly the extremely demanding climb I once undertook alone, accompanied by two guides, to the summit of the area's highest mountain, Mount Loosberg. That expedition was wild — and at times came close to being downright irresponsible! You can read about that adventure here (link).

This little expedition, fortunately, turns out to be considerably less demanding, although there are still a few steeper´ish sections.

Leaving Land Cruiser at nearby hill
Deception Hill Climb
Namibia 2026

We drive to the nearby hill and leave the Land Cruiser at its foot. From there we follow an old livestock fence upwards over the rocky terrain, enjoying the increasingly beautiful evening light across the desert.

We are also very careful about where we put our feet. The warm rocks and sandy path are exactly the sort of places where snakes and scorpions may enjoy an afternoon sunbath.

On the way to first top
Deception Hill Climb
Namibia 2026

Eventually, slightly out of breath, we reach the top of the rocky hill.

And now we understand why it is called Deception Hill.

Because we are not actually there yet.

Not there yet!
Deception Hill Climb
Namibia 2026

A Sundowner Above the Namib

From the top of the first hill we discover that the route continues down into a saddle — and then upwards again onto a second, higher hill that had been completely hidden from view.

Not everyone in the group is equally enthusiastic about this revelation ;-)

Looking back from sand dune to rock top
Deception Hill Climb
Namibia 2026

And the second summit is different again. Instead of the rocky terrain we have just climbed, it is a steep sand dune.

But naturally, we take on the challenge.

And we are rewarded spectacularly.

As the sun begins to disappear, the desert is transformed into an extraordinary palette of reds, oranges and deep shadows. The wind is blowing hard across the dune, sending fine red sand swirling around our legs and faces.

Getting a G&T poured and safely delivered to the top of the dune is itself becoming something of a luxury expedition in the blowing sand.

But naturally, we manage.

It is a long-standing sundowner tradition in the Namibian desert — and what could be more appropriate than celebrating it with the local Desolate Gin No. 7?

We stand on top of the dune, glasses in hand, watching the last light disappear across one of the most spectacular landscapes on Earth.

On the top!!
Deception Hill Climb
Namibia 2026

Another extraordinary day in the Namib.

Tomorrow, the next stage of our journey awaits — and with it, new adventures.

We feel very, very privileged.